Szatmár-Beregi Tájvédelmi Körzet

The area of the Szatmár-Beregi Landscape Protection Area is 21 891 hectares, of which 2 307 hectares are intensively protected. The landscape protection area falls under the Directorate of the Hortobágy National Park (HNP).

Location

The Szatmár-Beregi Landscape Protection Area was established in 1982 on the Szatmár and Bereg plains. The mosaic-structured landscape protection area is located in the outskirts of 37 settlements, its centre is in Fehérgyarmat, with a permanent exhibition presenting the values of the area in one place. It covers 21 891 hectares, of which 2 307 hectares enjoy intensified protection. In 1999 the preparations for expansion began, during which an additional approximately 25 000 hectares would receive protection.

Characteristics

The almost table‑flat region was once covered by a forest canopy interwoven with vast swamp and marsh patches. This original vegetation cover was broken into smaller pieces due to water regulation and swamp drainage. However, its present appearance—unlike other parts of the Great Plain—still closely resembles the former one. To preserve these mosaics, the landscape protection area was established in 1982 on 23 136 hectares.

In the Szatmár-Beregi landscape we encounter two volcanic cones. One is the Kaszonyi Hill next to Barabás, the other is the volcanic cone of Tarpai-Nagyhegy. The Beregi peat‑moss marshes (Bábtava, Nyíres-tó, Zsid-tó) are objects of high importance for Hungarian nature protection, because their formation required very special micro‑climatic conditions on the Hungarian Great Plain. Among the peat‑moss marshes, Nyíres-tó, which is a raised bog, represents a unique value in our country, since throughout Central Europe this habitat’s southernmost plain occurrence is here. The Bockereki forest, together with its wet habitats and the associated wooded meadow, is also an outstanding habitat complex. The Central Beregi plain offers a very varied and exciting picture to visitors. In historic times the landscape was shaped mainly by water (the Tisza and its tributaries); almost its entire area was covered by forest, which was mosaicked with marshes, swamps and meadows. Adapting to local conditions, people mainly practiced extensive agriculture. In the 18th century, however, the more intensive exploitation of natural resources began, resulting in the thinning and fragmentation of forests, and the wet habitats were also reduced to smaller areas. Nevertheless, the area still today is rich in natural values that need protection.

Flora and Fauna

The Cserköz and Téb forests of Magosliget, the Ricsei forest, the Garbolci forest are realms of hornbeam‑oak woods. The notable spring wonders of the Szatmár-Beregi forests are snowdrop, spring crocus, windflowers, and besides forest dove‑flower also marsh spotted lily and Carpathian starflower.

In the waterlogged and moist areas of the Landscape Protection Zone, on floodplains there are various forests; light pine forests, alder riparian forests (alder with roots), and floodplain jungle fruit orchards (at the Kisar border). The most recent pre‑Ice Age periods are best preserved in the primeval peatlands, such as at the Bábtava‑Csaroda border, or at the Nyírjes‑Lake‑Beregdaróc border with Ice Age relic plants. The local peat‑moss bogs are unique values of Szatmár‑Bereg even by European standards. The peat‑moss mats are composed of five types of peat moss. The specialities of Bábtava and Nyírjes‑Lake also include the leguminous wool‑grass, the round‑leaf dew‑grass, the violet‑grass, peat‑sedge, peat‑fern, peat‑cranberry, and bay‑leaf willow.

The area provides habitat for the valuable fauna of the Tisza, Szamos, and Túr region. Here the Danube goby, previously thought extinct among the trout species, was also found; among mammals the beaver and the otter are considered common. In the floodplain meadows the pale willow warbler nests. In the hornbeam‑oak woods we find the spotted lily, in the hardwood meadows (Dédai Forest) the cross‑viper, the buzzard and the hornet’s nest wasp.

The captivating elements of the region are the wild pear trees dressed in spring flower splendor on the wooded pastures, such as the Rókás pasture next to Túristvándi, or the Erethegy pasture between Penyige and Mánd. Besides oak and hornbeam we also find Hungarian stone pine, meadow juniper and old‑field willow here. The agricultural‑historical value of the rivers’ floodplain is the so‑called jungle fruit orchard. These are the habitats of ancient walnut, apple, plum and pear varieties once thought lost or forgotten. Important genetic reserves for breeding are these natural gardens.

Cultural values

The cultural values of the area are also incalculably valuable. The landscape’s culture, tools, houses, and villages were strongly influenced by the natural environment and the powerful nearby influence of Maramureș, as well as their harmonious combination. Most of the settlements of Szatmár‑Bereg originated in the era of the Hungarian conquest. Impressively beautiful churches, tree‑lined cemeteries, and industrial‑historical monuments characterize the landscape. The most beautiful relic of Árpád‑age churches is the marvelous Csaroda church or the experienced church of Tákos. Equally valuable are the bell‑foot of Lónyá and the boat‑tree‑lined cemetery of Szatmár‑Cseke. Remnants of a lifestyle that utilized natural springs are the Túristvándi water mill and the dry mill of Tákos.

The Exhibition Hall of the Szatmár-Beregi Landscape Protection Area, located in Fehérgyarmat, titled Man and Nature, presents an exhibition about the fauna and flora of the Upper Tisza region. The displays also include mammoth bones found nearby. A rich display of preserved animals complements the exhibition. On the exhibition panels, using photographs, graphs and drawings, the characteristics of the individual “islands” of the protected area can be traced from the historical formation of the landscape up to its designation as protected.

Images

The following images show the characteristic plant and animal species of the protected area. (The images were not taken here.)